If you’re a regular reader you’ll know by now how important it is to exfoliate. Thing is, those with sensitive skin often find it a struggle as mechanical (grainy) scrubs are too harsh and acid-based exfoliators, those that make use of AHA’s like glycolic acid, are often just as ouch-inducing.
Fortunately, you’ve still got enzyme exfoliators to choose from; they’re usually pretty mild and use fruit acids like pineapple and papaya. However, if you’re still feeling the burn or simply want a chemical (yet acid free) exfoliator that does more than just exfoliate, celeb dermatologist Dr. Perricone might have a little something for you in the form of Perricone MD Blue Plasma (R1 995).
Blue Plasma is a super light serum that’s to be applied just before your daily moisturiser or night cream. It promises to gently exfoliate your skin thanks to salmon roe and urea. (Aside from being a fab hydrator, urea has good exfoliating properties and many people don’t know that.)
The salmon bit, however, is especially interesting in that it only attacks dead skin cells and won’t cause any irritation. As it is, salmon larvae is quite clever in that it produces an enzyme that helps the egg to hatch without damaging the delicate li’l salmon baby inside it.
Aside from its exfoliators, Blue Plasma also contains phosphatidlycholine (a nice cell communicating ingredient that ensures the actives penetrate deeper into your skin), skin-plumping hyaluronic acid and soothing aloe leaf extract. There’s also a bit of collagen-encouraging copper in the mix but as it’s listed almost last in the ingredients list I’m not sure how effective it would be.
Then of course there’s DMAE. This is one of Dr. Perricone’s miracle skin-tightening ingredient. He’s been banging on about it for years and you can read more about it and what he thinks it does over here.
Anyway, I’ve been using Blue Plasma for a while now and it definitely does exfoliate. Not as intensively as my usual Environ AHA gel (which might murder sensitive skins), but enough for me to notice that it’s working. For example, if I stick it on my face at night when I have very subtle flaking around my nose (I use a lot of retinol), it manages to sizzle it off by morning. I also like that only a few drops goes a long way and is all I need to keep my complexion looking bright.
The only negatives, I think, are that it contains menthol which can irritate sensitive skin and that it’s packaged in a glass dropper bottle that lets in air every time you open it. You can get around this, however, by decanting it into a pump bottle. Oh! And due to the high fish egg content some people complain that it has a slightly fishy smell but I wouldn’t go as far to list this as a con; most days it’s imperceptible but on those that you do smell it, it disappears the moment it sinks into your skin. Promise!
One more thing, while the price is pretty steep I’m not listing it as a negative. You either can afford this or you can’t and if not, there are other non-acid chemical exfoliators for you to choose from, just one being urea-focused Kiehl’s Over-Night Biological Peel.
In all, if you’re looking for a daily chemical exfoliant for sensitive skin, aren’t irritated by menthol and get excited by DMAE, Dr. Perricone’s Blue Plasma might just be your baby. You’ll find it at selected Edgars and Red Square stores as well as Stuttafords.