You’ve probably heard of mesotherapy, right? For those who haven’t, it’s a cosmetic procedure that involves injecting a cocktail of active ingredients into the transdermal layer of your skin, using multiple teeny tiny needle pricks. The results you can expect depend on the ingredients you use. As an example, hyaluronic acid will hydrate and plump, certain peptides can improve pigmentation and retinol and vitamin C can stimulate collagen.
If you could get the results of mesotherapy from a cream then the treatment wouldn’t exist so I don’t think there are any products on the market that could claim to be mesotherapy in a bottle but Filorga isn’t doing that. They have, however, produced a new line that’s inspired by the treatment in that it also includes a cocktail of ingredients – NCTF Reverse.
The line includes an ‘essence’ (it’s kind of like a super light fluid you could use under any moisturiser), a serum, cream and a lotion with mattifying properties for oily skin and I was given the latter – NCTF Reverse Mat Supreme Regenerating Fluid (R1 230, selected Edgars, Red Square and Clicks stores).
Filorga says their NCTF line contains an anti-ageing complex that’s equivalent in potency to a single professional injection of their NCTF complex. While that’s good to know, it doesn’t mean that anyone who was previously injecting themselves with their complex now doesn’t have to anymore. While the injection and a topical product might be equivalent in ‘strength’, the injection will deliver more results because it’s able to penetrate deeper into your skin. Now this doesn’t mean the NCTF line isn’t a goodie, but it is important to know the difference.
So, what’s in the mix? First, you’re looking at Filorga’s patented NCTF complex, a mind-boggling mix of vitamins, antioxidants, minerals, amino acids and co-enzymes. All of the ingredients used are good for your skin but, for me, the jury’s still out on whether it’s more advantageous to get a micro-dose of everything VS a very high concentrations of just a few things. But I can tell you this, anyone who’s relying on just one or two ingredients to take care of their skin is doing it the wrong way. People often ask me what the ‘best’ active is for anti-ageing and it just doesn’t work like that. Sure, retinol is amazing for wrinkles, but if you’re not using a good SPF or antioxidants as well as ingredients that target specific concerns (like salicylic acid if you’re struggling with spots) then you’re going to come up short. So in short, much like a well-balanced diet, your skin does need to ‘eat’ a variety of things to be healthy.
In saying that, the active cocktail in Filorga’s fluid is a nice one in terms of what they’ve used. On top of the NCTF complex, they’ve included other things like hyaluronic acid (the hydrating skin plumper) that’s been micro-encapsulated to penetrate deeper into your skin. It’s a myth that oily skin doesn’t need hydration. It does! In fact, oily-skin types are often dehydrated which is exactly why their skin is pumping out all that oil – to help hydrate.
Something else that’s interesting about oily skin? It really, really needs antioxdants. When oil oxidises it becomes thick and clumpy and it ends up occluding your skin and creating blackheads. So antioxidants, of which there are many in this particular product, is a win. Another thing about antioxidants is that you really do need a mix of them. There are several brands that like to shout about how their particular product contains one of the most potent antioxidants money can buy and that’s great, but different antioxidants blitz different free radicals, so again you need a spray of them to fully protect your face. It’s better to have a mix of several as opposed to just one that’s crazy potent in klapping just one set of baddies.
As far as controlling oil goes, Filorga says it contains a plant extract that reduces oil production but they aren’t specific as to what it’s called. I can, however, spot enantia chlorantha bark extract sitting high up in the ingredients list and that’s an antioxidant that’s proven to help regulate your oil production glands.
In regards to wrinkles and radiance, I can also spot collagen-encouraging retinol and brightening vitamin C in the ingredients list which is awesome but they’re kind of slap bang in the middle of it so don’t toss your targeted retinol product just yet. (For the record, I really like Dermaceutic’s Activ Retinol 1,0. It contains 1% retinol and 1% vitamin C.)
Right! So we’ve covered a whopload of ingredient analysis but what does the darn thing ‘feel’ like to use? Fab, actually! It’s got a light, gel-creme-like texture, absorbs fast and contains a lot of matiffiers so you’re left with a velvety-feeling matte finish – almost like you’ve mixed a light lotion with a mattifying silicone-primer. You’ll even notice that your skin looks ever so slightly smoother after you’ve applied it.
Sometimes products gooi too many mattifiers into the mix and that dries to a powder-like finish which makes applying foundation a living nightmare if not impossible. Not with this guy. I’ve worn it with several foundations and BB creams and application is a dream. As far as the mattifying effect goes, yep, that works too. I still have to reach for my beloved oil-blotting powders as the day goes on, but most definitely less so than I’d have to had a I used something else that wasn’t specifically formulated for oil-combination skin. I’m off to Thailand for three weeks in September and this is one of the products I’ll consider taking along. It’ll be great to wear once the sun goes down but the weather’s still humid as all hell.
So, the short of it? If you’re oily-combo, concerned about anti-ageing and currently using a basic lotion for oily skin that’s working for you, by all means keep it up. You’ll be on the right track provided you’re pairing it with a sunscreens and a targeted anti-ageing serum that you can apply on top of it or at night. However, if you can afford it and want to swap out that basic lotion for one that’s going to give a helluva lot more swords in the fight against Father Time then Filorga’s newbie is most definitely an option.